(PHOTO BY CHRISTIAN COULOMBE, DND)
July 28, 2000
JANE GEORGE
Nunatsiaq News
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KUUJJUAQ — Last Friday, 30 young junior rangers and 47 cadets finished an incredible 500-kilometer trek along the Leaf River that began in Umiujaq on Nunavik’s Hudson Bay coast and ended up in the Ungava Bay community of Tasiujaq.
The journey, called Expedition Nunavik 2000, became a true adventure for the teenagers, who struggled to complete the canoe trip across the top of Quebec.
By all accounts, their two-week trip on the Leaf River was exceptionally — and unexpectedly — challenging.
"It was more stressful than my peacekeeping tour in Bosnia," said Major Marcel Talbot, the expedition’s commander. "I was worried that we wouldn’t all make it back in one piece. The low point was in the rapids where the water was very high, six feet higher than usual."
Each of expedition’s 10 large canoes held nine or 10 young reservists, as well as an experienced instructor from the armed forces.
One group travelled the entire journey from Umiujaq to Tasijuaq, completing more than 20 portages with their canoe between Umiujaq and Lake Minto. On July 6, all the canoes headed out from Lake Minto, following Leaf River until they reached Tasiujaq on July 21.
The canoes covered between 20 and 60 kilometers a day. The best day on the water, according to many, was when the canoes raised sails to let the winds take over.
These same high winds, however, often slowed the canoeists’ progress. Rough river water also meant the group often had get out of the canoes, walk along the shore, guiding the canoes along by cord — a tedious process.
Once, caught in a river rapid by surprise, a canoe went spinning down backwards through the white water. This canoe managed to make it through, but the next three capsized, throwing their passengers and stock into the water.
"It all happened so fast you didn’t have time to be scared," said one junior ranger.
Gruelling schedule
Fishermen nearby helped recover the wet travelers and retrieve their belongings, but it took hours for their wet clothes and bedding to dry out. Many never recovered their personal possessions which fell into the water.
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In another mishap, a canoe was wedged against a huge rock and split in two.
Even without accidents, the expedition’s daily schedule was grueling — wake-up at 6 a.m., followed by a quick meal, breaking camp, then paddling until late afternoon with a couple of rests, setting up camp, and making supper.
By 10 p.m. most fell asleep, despite the prolonged daylight outside and attacks from hordes of hungry mosquitoes and black flies.
"There were so many it felt like rain falling on your head," a ranger leader said.
There were other challenges to be dealt with, too, such as the monotony of the food, which consisted mostly of prepacked rations or easy-to-prepare dehydrated foods such as grains and beans.
"Everything had sand in it," said one cadet, who admitted putting maple syrup and peanut butter in everything to make it taste better.
"I never want to taste another lentil in my life," said another.
Fish was plentiful, but only one caribou was ever spotted, quashing the organizers’ plans to supplement the expedition’s daily diet with hearty country food. A feast of hot dogs, chips, drinks and cake midway ended up being the best meal of the trip for many.
Due to the loss of supplies when canoes capsized, toilet paper and soap were in short stock. Informal "commandos" formed, taking these essentials from the more fortunate tents who were still well-equipped. Granola bars were bartered for special items or money.
Cigarette craving
Much to Major Talbot’s dismay, cigarettes were also in demand, and a "stick" could get up to $20.
"I sold two packs for $50," one girl admitted.
Upon their return to Kuujjuaq, the list of priorities for all participants included showers and a good dose of junk food.
The cadets and junior rangers said they felt a sense of accomplishment after their experience and a feeling of relief that it was finally over.
Mjr. Talbot said the trip "had gone very, very well," while Mattiusi Tulugak, a ranger and junior ranger leader from Puvirnituq who accompanied the trip, said it was "great." Tulugak, who often filled in for paddlers who needed a rest, came back in top physical shape.
Perhaps it was just fatigue, but a few of the expedition’s other leaders seemed to be disappointed and discouraged upon their arrival in Kuujjuaq. They said the cadets and junior rangers were often at varying skill and interest levels, making group motivation much harder.
For some, Nunavik 2000 was the trip of a lifetime, but for others it apparently was more an obligation than a dream. Many, particularly those from Nunavik, were home sick. Three left the expedition, two before it started off, and another mid-way.
Judging from the comments of leaders and participants, not everyone was physically or mentally up to the rigorous routine of paddling for hours every day. There was also reportedly some tension among the French, English-Canadian, British and Inuit participants.
Those who didn’t speak English were said to be at a disadvantage because they couldn’t communicate with everyone, and, as a result, some canoes never quite developed the kind of rapport organizers had hoped for.
Strong friendships
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But many new, strong friendships were formed between some cadets and junior rangers. One junior ranger collected names of all his new friends on a broken canoe paddle. Uiyaki Angiyou from Puvirnituq and Kaina Tookalak from Umiujaq, who became fast friends with each other on the trip, were already making plans to see each other again.
Some of the participants said they intend to redo the expedition 10 years from now.
Next year a similar event will be planned for cadets and junior rangers.
"We will do it again, but not necessarily in the same place," said cadet coordinator Major Serge Dubé.
After the group’s arrival in Kuujjuaq, a formal parade was held at the Kuujjuaq Forum, which included all the cadets and junior rangers, as well as a marching band.
Among those present were Quebec’s Lt-Governor, Lise Thibault, and the Art Eggleton, the minister of National Defence.
"Imagine, paddling 500 kilometers through all sorts of difficulties and challenges," Eggleton told the gathering. "I am sure you are all thankful that you do not have to paddle back."
New money for Rangers
Eggleton also announced new money, a whopping $7 million over the next eight years, for junior rangers and Canadian rangers.
"The Canadian rangers are crucial to assuring Canada’s security in some of the most isolated and remote areas of the nation," Eggleton said.
"In addition, Canadian rangers bring unique support to search and rescue operations. The Canadian rangers also play an important role in their communities by supporting the junior Canadian rangers program. With the support and guidance of community elders, leaders and Canadian rangers, young people learn traditional skills, life skills and ranger skills."
Under this new funding program, called CANRAN 2000, numbers of rangers will increase from 3,500 to 4,800, and the numbers of junior rangers will go from 2,100 to 3,900.